하이드록시피나콜론 레티노에이트(Hydroxypinacolone retinoate) > 성분정보

1. 성분명​

하이드록시피나콜론레티노에이트

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

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※ 트레티노인(alltransretinoic acid)의 에스테르

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2. 구조식

C26H38O3

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3. SKIN DEEP(EWG)

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4. 원료 제조사​

Grant Industries(미국)

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※ 생산방식

인공 합성

발효 추출

분리 정제

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5. 화장품 용도​

유효성분

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6. 화장품 효능​

주름개선

레티노이드 성분으로

콜라겐 생성은 트레티노인과 유사하고

피부자극은 레티놀이나 레티놀보다 적다.

(JAAD 2018)

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7. 유명제품​

닥터오라클의 레티노타이트닝 앰플

닥터오라클의 레티노타이트닝 크림

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8. 역사​

레티놀의 단점인 안정성을 보완하고자

여러 차례 개발 시도되었으며,

그 중 온도에 대한 안정성과

피부 도포시 피부 재생 관여 수용체와

곧바로 결합하는 등의 효율성 부분에서

우수한 하이드록시피나콜론레티노에이트성분이 개발되었습니다.

레티놀의 단점을 보완하기 위해 개발된

여러 비타민 A1 유도체 성분 중에서도

가장 최신 성분인 하이드록시피나콜론 레티노에이트는 그 역사는 다소 짧은 편이지만, 기능성을 인정받았다.

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9. 복용시 효능​

복용하지 않음

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10. 기타​

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# 레티놀의 레티노익애시드로 세포내 산화 과정

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# hydroxypinacolone retinoate의 항노화관련 논문 리뷰

(Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models)​

jaad.2018.05

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요약)​

# Tretinoin(all-trans retinoic acid (ATRA))

antiaging effects on skin

skin irritation, photochemical instability

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# Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR)

cosmetic grade ester of tretinoin

innate retinoic acid activity,

binding directly with retinoid receptors

more stable and cause less skin irritation than retinol

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# 레티노이드의 gene transcription 비교

HPR, tretinoin, retinaldehyde,lretinol and retinyl palmitate를 비교함

tretinoin > HPR > retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate

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HPR had greater levels of gene transcription than Rol, Ral, and RP at the same concentrations.

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HPR had less cytotoxic to cells at a 10 times higher concentration.

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significantly increased procollagen production, and similar to tretinoin​

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HPR을 고농도 사용시 tretinoin보다 콜라겐생성이 증가됨

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# 결론: 이상을 종합해볼때 HPR은 트레티노인이나 레티날(레틴알데하이드)이나 레티놀의 대안이다.

하이드록시피나콜론레티노에이트를 0.1%, 0.2% 함유한 제품은 우수한 효과를 보일 것으로 추정됨

향후에는 레티노이드 화장품의 표준으로 자리매김할 것으로 봄.

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​(초록)

Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models

jaad.2018.05

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Tretinoin, also known as all-trans retinoic acid (ATRA), is well known for its antiaging effects on skin. However, skin irritation, photochemical instability, and concerns about toxicity have hindered the use of ATRA in cosmetic products. Typically, milder retinoid derivatives are used, which must first be metabolized to more active forms by several enzymatic steps in the skin, which reduces their potency. Therefore, it is desirable to find new molecules that have increased retinoic acid–like activity without the negative side-effects.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), a cosmetic grade ester of ATRA, is unique in that it processes innate retinoic acid activity, binding directly with retinoid receptors without the need for metabolic breakdown to more biologically active forms.

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It has been demonstrated to be more stable and cause less skin irritation than retinol. Here, we compared levels of gene transcription by HPR, ATRA, retinol (Rol), retinaldehyde (Ral), and retinyl palmitate (RP) by evaluating binding of the retinoic acid receptor to retinoid acid responsive elements (RARE) in DNA using a RARE reporter assay.

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In addition, we compared the antiaging properties of HPR to ATRA by testing the effects on collagen levels and skin irritation in organotypic skin models. Skin models were treated for 5 days with three doses of HPR and ATRA; vehicle controls skins were treated with vehicle alone. Basal media was collected for procollagen and 1L-1α ELISA analysis. On day 5, skins were fixed, paraffin embedded, sectioned, and stained with Masson trichrome (for collagen).

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RARE assay results showed that HPR had greater levels of gene transcription than Rol, Ral, and RP at the same concentrations, and was less cytotoxic to cells at a 10 times higher concentration; however, HPR did not achieve gene transcription levels of ATRA. Procollagen ELISA results showed that skins treated with HPR significantly increased procollagen production compared with untreated control skins, and was similar to ATRA. ​

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Qualitative assessment of collagen levels from histologic staining of skins corroborated these results, with the highest dose of HPR out-performing ATRA.

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IL-1α ELISA analysis showed that HPR did not induce more (or less) inflammatory response than either ATRA or the vehicle control. Together these data suggest that HPR is an effective alternative to ATRA and other less potent retinoids in the treatment of aging skin without the detrimental side-effects.

출처) https://www.jaad.org/article/S0190-9622(18)31012-0/abstract​

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​● 성상

1) 분자량

398.6 g/mol

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2) 실온 형상

황색 액상 용액

황색 고체 가루

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3) 끓는 점

508.5 ℃

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# Kg당 가격

1kg 당 대략 900,000 – 2,200,000원​​

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#히드록시피나콜론 레티노에이트논문 #히드록시피나콜론 레티노에이트크림 #히드록시피나콜론 레티노에이트화장품추천 #주름개선화장품추천 #주름개선성분 #탄력성분 #피부재생성분 #섬유아세포활성화성분 #피붓결개선 #표피두께증가 #세포외기질형성촉진 #혈관질촉진화장품

#Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate #droracle